Federica Marchionni has led many companies, from Ferrari and Dolce & Gabbana in her native Italy to the post of CEO of US retail chain Land's End. But in the midst of the pandemic, she saw an opening for a top post at the Global Fashion Agenda, a Danish organization that seeks to help the fashion industry become more sustainable, Fast Company reported.
"When I saw that Global Fashion Agenda (GFA) was looking for a CEO, the first thing I did was go to church to pray. I really wanted this position. It was in the middle of the pandemic: I was stuck in Italy and I couldn't moved to Denmark, where GFA is based. But it worked out in the end," she said.
Over the past three years, she has transformed GFA's mission from simply making sustainability a priority for the fashion industry to making it a force for good in the world. GFA supplies renewable energy to manufacturing centers in Bangladesh, provides fashion workers in Cambodia and Vietnam access to safe and well-paid work in garment factories, and supports startups developing fabric recycling technologies.
We are at a point where many advocates of sustainable development feel discouraged. Megapollutants like Shein and Temu are growing fast. Meanwhile, innovative startup Renewcell, which many hoped would make widespread clothing recycling a reality, recently filed for bankruptcy. In the face of all these challenges, Marchionni has a long-term perspective. And he believes that the fashion industry is actually in the midst of a major positive transformation. That's why, she says, we need to move on.
Many young people seem very concerned about the future of the planet. But they are also the ones who buy products from ultra-fast fashion brands like Shein and Temu. What do you think is happening?
"Young people are taught to shop at very low prices. And yes, it is contradictory and inconsistent when considering their beliefs about sustainability.
We need to be patient and continue to educate them about how their shopping choices affect the environment. One of the things I encourage schools to do is take students to landfill sites to show them the piles of clothing that go into landfills. And to explain to them that disposable clothes only create waste.
I also think it is extremely important for parents to be taught how to shop, as they are setting an example for their children on how to make good decisions about what to buy. If we teach them that having fewer and more durable clothes is a good thing, they will carry that mindset with them when they are old enough to shop for themselves.
But I also think that this younger generation is seeing firsthand the reality of climate change. They grow in the conditions of fires and floods that happen all around them. And that is very scary. It's a shame, but I believe it will increasingly push them to make better choices," Marchioni said.
Many of us in the world of sustainable fashion feel that things are not moving fast enough. What will it take for fashion to not only stop polluting, but become a force for good?
"I'm an optimist and I believe it will happen. Don't get me wrong: it will be difficult because this is a complex system that requires systemic change. But there are ways to get there.
One of the main priorities is innovation. We are seeing much smarter material options coming to market. Companies are thinking about the entire fabric creation process, from the raw materials and chemicals to how these materials can fit into a circular system with recycling.
In some cases, the transformation will take time, but we need to start making these changes today. We launched an initiative to build a wind farm in Bangladesh, which currently uses fossil fuels. We'll have to wait until 2026 or 2028 for it to take effect, but it's on the way.
And the consumer is an important actor. I truly believe that if consumers change their shopping habits to be more responsible, companies will take notice. Companies are very sensitive to changes in consumer behavior and will do whatever it takes to not lose customers. So let's not underestimate our role as individuals," said the GFA Executive Director.
How big of a problem is overproduction in the industry?
"It's a huge problem. In the American retail system, there is pressure to run regular promotions in order to meet your financial goals. But this only creates a cycle of overproduction and overconsumption. Instead, they should focus on creating more durable products that people can wear for longer. This also means creating more classic styles that won't go out of style.
The problem is that many companies are incentivized to focus on short-term growth rather than the long-term vision. Brands like Patagonia are needed to show us that it's possible to have a broader, long-term vision that puts the planet and human rights first, and still be very successful," she says.
Many of us are losing hope that big companies can and will become more sustainable. We believe in smaller startups making things better. But it's harder for them to make an impact. Do you think big companies have the capacity to change?
"I don't know exactly how much capacity they have today, but I believe the consumer can and will make them change." Companies are very adept at responding to business needs.
Consider e-commerce. There are so many brands that have gone out of business because they didn't adapt quickly enough to the internet revolution. The same will happen with sustainability.
But I also think there will be interaction between the innovative small players and the larger companies. These smaller companies are inventing the technology and inspiring larger companies to change the way they do business. And in some cases, larger companies acquire their technology. So, as an industry, we will move forward," said Marchioni./BGNES