For her first and eagerly awaited collection at the helm of Chloé, designer Chemena Kamali rooted herself in the Parisian fashion house's 1970s vision based on notions of "strength" and "freedom", the era of "the daring woman", AFP reports.
"Returning to Chloé was very natural, it was like coming home and starting anew," said the 41-year-old German, who has already worked for the brand, first as an intern and then under the aegis of Phoebe Philo in particular.
For her first collection, she designed silhouettes that played on contrasts: fuzzy and cropped, feminine and masculine, chiffon and vinyl, powder pink and army green, white lace and black thigh-high boots.
A look that epitomises this notion: a romantic, nude-toned dress, full of movement and fluidity, which springs from a very masculine, hard, leg-length black leather coat.
These very Parisian looks have Western details and a metal logo belt that doesn't cinch much but embellishes the silhouette.
Following Gabriella Hirst's departure as Chloé's artistic director, Chemena Kamali, a German-born designer trained at London's prestigious Central Saint Martins, was poached by Saint Laurent and hired by its parent company, the Richemont conglomerate, on October 9.
Chloé, the French fashion house founded in 1952 by Gaby Aguillon, through which Karl Lagerfeld, who created the logo, passed, is struggling to find - or rediscover - its DNA after the disruptive suggestions of its most dedicated artistic director.
"I want to go back to the original roots of the house and build a sensual Chloé that radiates warmth and positivity," his successor explained. / BGNES